Wild Heart of India Small Group India Safari Tour
It was never on our bucket list.
We had heard the stories. Delhi belly, dirty and noisy, crowded, smog, third world place, dangerous, unfriendly people…. Everyone had a horror story. (Martin and Pauline added on 2 extra nights in Delhi which included our famous Old Delhi Heritage and Food Walking tour)

Photo credit: Martin and Pauline Oldfield. Old Delhi
We saw this trip advertised by Michael Snedic, from Wild Nature Photo Expeditions who works with Reena at Mantra Wild Adventures. We liked game drives in Africa chasing the big 5.
India has the big 6 (same 5 plus tiger) – who knew that??? We had never seen the leopard. So we opted for this Small Group India Safari Tour escorted by Michael.
It had never been on our bucket list. We believed the stories.
We spoke to Michael and then Reena from Mantra Wild Adventures. We decided …. what the heck! It is only for 2 weeks and we can put up with just about anything for 2 weeks. Let’s just not extend our stay. The stories had us a bit worried. Good luck with all of that the story tellers told us.
It was never on our bucket list.
It should have been. The stories were wrong.
The food was amazing. Not a hint of Delhi belly, not even a mild upset. Even off the streets in Old Delhi. The lodges Reena chose were first rate.

Martin and Pauline with host and naturalist, Aly from Reni Pani Lodge at Satpura Tiger Reserve. Breakfast is served!
The traffic was …. interesting… to say the least. Unless you can judge the width of your car to the nearest millimetre, are prepared to consider road line markings as decoration only, don’t get perturbed by passing on blind corners, or turning nominally 2 lanes into 4 lanes of cars plus 2 bike lanes, and the prospect that someone will decide to ride their rickshaw the wrong way down a crowded road doesn’t faze you, do not .. I repeat …. DO NOT…. even think about trying to drive in India.
Reena found us excellent drivers. After the first couple of hours of heart in the mouth stuff we realised that this was normal, everyone knew the “rules” and we were actually quite safe. Sit back and enjoy the marvelous scenery.
The guides told us that Delhi was just foggy, because the politicians assured them that it was not smog. Not sure that it is strictly correct, but on the plus side it provided a beautiful misty light for photography. The air in central India was clear (albeit a bit dusty).

Photo Credit: Martin and Pauline Oldfield in Old Delhi.
We roamed the back alleys of Old Delhi, we drove through dozens of villages, we walked through village streets taking photos and mixing with the locals. Without exception the people were open and friendly. The service levels provided at the lodges was of the highest standard, and the staff friendly and cheerful. Not once did we feel the slightest bit threatened or in danger.
It was never on our bucket list. What a shame.
The national parks were amazing. We were told that Indian animals are more elusive than African animals. And they were. The leopard that had eluded us for many years (I think about 17 game drives in Africa and India) remained …….. elusive. Until that wonderful moment in Pench when we were treated to a 9 minute sighting. The wait was worth it. What joy! What an amazing creature. (You can see how happy we were in this video!!)

Photo Credit: Martin and Pauline Oldfield, taken at Pench Tiger Reserve.

Photo Credit: Martin and Pauline Oldfield, taken at Pench Tiger Reserve.
And now for that iconic cat – the Bengal tiger.
Plenty of sightings we were told – last week. Our excellent guides tracked their footprints, we heard the alarm calls, we smelt their kill, we drove for hours in the beautiful jungle. We were rewarded only with a 5 second clear view under difficult circumstances. But that actually didn’t disappoint us as much as it might be thought. If the only outcome we wanted was a picture of a tiger, we would go to a zoo and get it. But we enjoy the experience of being in their jungle and knowing that at any moment we might see one around the next corner. We can always come back.

Photo Credit: Martin and Pauline Oldfield, taken at Kanha Tiger Reserve.
It was never on our bucket list.

Photo credit: Martin and Pauline Oldfield, taken at Kanha Tiger Reserve.
It is now.
Thank you Reena and Michael.
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